Apparel fabric manufacturing process; system and product thereof

ABSTRACT

A process and system for forming an apparel fabric having a predetermined requisite optical colour and pattern effect and predetermined physical fabric properties are disclosed. The process comprises the steps of: (1) providing a first plurality of n yarn; (ii) providing at least one further plurality of m yarn; and (iii) knitting the first plurality of n yarn with the at least one further plurality of m yarn by way of a knitting process to form a multi-ply apparel fabric; wherein each yarn is formed from a plurality of fibers formed from a polymeric material, wherein the fibers are formed from a dope dyeing process and wherein the fibers are colored during the dope dyeing process; wherein upon knitting the first plurality of n yarn with the at least one further plurality of m yarn to form the multi-ply apparel fabric, the apparel fabric is formed having the predetermined requisite optical colour and pattern effect devoid of optically detectable variants in the requisite optical colour and pattern effect; and wherein the first plurality of n yarn and the at least one further plurality of m yarn are selected to provide the predetermined requisite optical colour and pattern effect and the predetermined physical fabric properties.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a process and system for the productionof apparel fabrics, and more particularly, the present invention relatesto a process and system for providing a coloured apparel fabric.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Within the field of textile manufacture for apparel manufacturing, thereexists several processes and methodologies for the dying of such apparelmaterials and fabrics.

Processes utilized for dying in the textile and apparel field accordingto the prior art, include the conventional batch dyeing procedure. Thisprocess is performed within pressurized high temperature dyeingequipment, and dyestuffs such as dispersion dyes including Dystar Dianixsized at 1 micron, are pre dispersed within water under liquor to anappropriate ratio of typically at around 1:8 of dye to water as adispersion in the water. In such a high temperature dyeing process, thedispersed dye may be provided so as to include the ratio or percentageof dispersion dye on weight of the fabric under a pH buffering systemformed from yarn or fibers.

In such a process, the dyeing process is commenced at room temperatureand then raised to an elevated temperature of about 130° C. to 135° C.The temperature is raised under temperature control at approximately1.5° C. per minute to a temperature of 90° C. and then being held at thesaid temperature of 90° C. for about 10 minutes to assist in dyeleveling or evenness of the dyestuff distributed on a fabric surface.The temperature is then raised to the requisite temperature of about130° C. to 135° C. for 30 minutes to 40 minutes so as to allow dyestuffpenetration of the fabric sheet, for example fabric formed fromPolyethylene terephthalate(polyester) polymer.

The dye bath in which the fabric resides is then dropped from as high atemperature as possible to avoid the residue oligomer being retained onthe fabric, typically at a rapid cooling rate from 132 degrees Celsiusto room temperature, often with an intermediate temperature of 80degrees Celsius which assists in the reduction of the formation ofcreases in the fabric.

The fabric is subsequently washed off typically at room temperaturewhich may consist of more than one wash off step in typically roomtemperature water. After the washing process step, the fabric isprovided with a reduction clear (RC) processing step, whereby the fabricis washed off in a bath typically containing the equivalent of about twograms per liter of each 100% solid caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) andhydro (sodium hydrosulphite).

A neutralization step follows thereafter, whereby the fabric is treatedin a neutralizing acidic solution, typically acetic acid for example 0.5cc/litre for a time period of about 30 minutes at room temperature, inorder to neutralize any residual alkaline materials utilized in thereduction clear process step.

A softening process is typically deployed thereafter, whereby the fabricis treated by a softening agent of about 4% for about a further 30minutes such as a hydrophilic softener that provides a soft feel by handsuch as Tubingal GSO from CHT.

Another dyeing process as utilized in the prior art for the dyeing offabric as a textile material is the foam dying process. In this process,the fabric is preheated to a temperature of about 10 degrees Celsius to20 degrees Celsius above room temperature to provide a softer fabric,and which is then drawn through a foam coloring agent.

The foam typically has a volume of about 10 times more than water whichis provided as a dyestuff transport medium which, upon the fabric beingdrawn through a pair of opposing rollers, applies the dye to the fabric.

Subsequently, a drying process is required to dry the fabric. The foamdying process is typically used for the dying of carpet and for thedying of bulk fabric.

A further dying process utilized in the prior art for the dying offabric by way of a cold pad batch process. This process is frequentlydeployed within the art for the dyeing of cellulosic materials and forthe dying of cotton knit fabrics. Approximately ⅓ of cotton knit dyingin Europe is prepared according to this process.

The cold patch dying process involves a technique or process wherebypad-batch dyeing starts with saturating first the prepared fabric withpre-mixed dye liquor, which is then passed through a set of rollers. Therollers, or otherwise known as paddlers, effectively forces the dyestuffinto the fabric. In this cold patch process, excess dye solution is alsoremoved. Following the removal of the excess dye stuff, the fabric issubsequently “batched”, whereby batching is done by either storing inrolls or in boxes, which typically takes a minimum of 4-12 hours. Thebatches are generally enclosed by plastic films which preventsabsorption of carbon dioxide as well as water evaporation. Finally, uponthe reaction being complete, the fabrics are washed typically by becks,beams, or any other washing device.

A further process utilized in the art of fabric colouring is carbondioxide dyeing, which is also known within the art as vapour phasedyeing. This is a recent development in the art of textile and fabricdyeing, whereby a fabric is dyed under vapour without the necessity ofwater. The entire process is conducted in a closed environment so as toprevent contamination to and from the surroundings.

Object of the Invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide a process and systemfor providing an apparel fabric material, which overcomes or amelioratesat least some of the deficiencies as associated with the prior art.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention may involve several broad forms. Embodiments ofthe present invention may include one or any combination of thedifferent broad forms herein described.

In a first aspect, the present invention provides a process of formingan apparel fabric having a predetermined requisite optical colour andpattern effect and having predetermined physical fabric properties, saidprocess comprising the steps of:

(i) providing a first plurality of n yarn, wherein the total denier of nyarn is equal to a first denier (D₁);

(ii) providing at least one further plurality of m yarn, wherein thetotal of m yarn is equal to a further Denier (D₂); and

(iii) knitting the first plurality of yarn with the at least one furtherplurality of yarn by way of a knitting process so as to form a multi-plyapparel fabric;

wherein each yarn is formed from a plurality of fibers formed from apolymeric material, wherein the fibers are formed from a dope dyeingprocess and wherein said fibers are colored during said dope dyeingprocess;

wherein upon knitting of said first plurality of n yarn with said atleast one further plurality of m yarn to form said multi-ply apparelfabric, said apparel fabric is formed having said predeterminedrequisite optical colour and pattern effect devoid of opticallydetectable variants in said requisite optical colour and pattern effect;and

wherein the first plurality of n yarn and the at least one furtherplurality of m yarn are selected so as to provide said predeterminedoptical colour and pattern effect and said predetermined physical fabricproperties.

Preferably the first denier (D₁) and the further denier (D₂) are in therange of from 45 denier to 200 denier.

Each yarn of the first plurality of n yarn and each yarn of the at leastfurther plurality of m yarn preferably consists of p number of fiberswhereby p is in the range of from 40 to 300, and wherein each fiber hasa largest cross sectional diameter in the range of from 0.2 μm to 1.1μm.

Preferably, the polymeric material each yarn of the first plurality of nyarn and each yarn of the at least further plurality of m yarn is formedselected from the group including Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyester,Acrylic, Polyolefin, Nylon 6 and Nylon 66 and blends thereof.

Preferably, the polymeric material utilised in the dope dyeing processis of irregular form having a maximum dimension in the range of from 1.5to 4 mm. The polymeric material may be provided in an irregular form,having dimensions of approximately 3.3 mm×3 mm×2.2 mm.

A master batch pigment is utilised in the dope dyeing process wherebythe particle size of the master batch is less than the denier of thefibers from which the yarn is formed.

Preferably, the master batch pigment has a particle size in the range offrom 20 nanometers to about 2 microns.

The dope dyeing process preferably includes the introduction of asoftening agent, so as to provide a softening effect to the knittedapparel fabric.

Preferably, the dope dyeing process includes the introduction of adulling agent in the range of approximately 0.4% to 1.5% by weight, soprovide a requisite level of dullness to the knitted apparel fabric.Preferably, the dulling agent is TiO2.

The knitting process is preferably a commercial knitting processperformed by an automatic knitting machine. Preferably, the knittingprocess is performed by a circular knitting machine.

Preferably, the first plurality of yarn and the at least a furtherplurality of yarn have the same number of yarn.

Preferably, wherein each yarn of the first plurality of n yarn has thesame denier such that each yarn has a denier of (D₁)/n, and wherein eachyarn of the at least one further plurality of m yarn has the same deniersuch that each yarn has a denier of (D₂)/m.

Preferably, the first denier (D₁) is equal to the further Denier (D₂).

Preferably, the first plurality of yarn and the at least one furtherplurality of yarn are formed from the same polymeric material.

The requisite optical colour and pattern effect may be a solid coloureffect. Alternatively, the requisite optical colour and pattern effectis a regular pattern effect or an irregular pattern effect.

The requisite optical colour and pattern effect may be a patternselected from the group including heather pattern, stripes, jacquard,motifs and the like.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides an apparel fabricformed from the process of the first aspect.

In a third aspect, the present invention provides an article of apparelformed from an apparel material formed from the process of the firstaspect.

In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides process of forming ayarn consisting of dope dyed fibers for production of an apparel fabrichaving a predetermined requisite optical colour and pattern effect andhaving predetermined physical fabric properties, said process includingthe steps of:, said process including the steps of:

(i) mixing a master batch dye of a requisite colour with a moltenpolymeric material so as to form a molten polymeric material of saidrequisite colour;

(ii) extruding said molten polymeric material through a plurality ofspinnerets so as to form a plurality of dope dyed fibers of saidrequisite colour, wherein said spinnerets having a size of approximately2 to 3 times the requisite size of the fibers from which a yarn is to beformed; and

(iii) winding a plurality of said fibers so as to form a dope dyed yarnfor subsequent forming of an apparel fabric.

Preferably the yarn has a denier is in the range of from 45 denier to200 denier.

Each yarn preferably consists of a number of fibers in the range of from40 to 300.

Each fiber of said yarn preferably has a largest cross sectionaldiameter in the range of from 0.2 μm to 1.1 μm.

Preferably, the polymeric materials is formed from materials from thegroup including Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyester, Acrylic,Polyolefin and blends thereof.

The polymeric material utilised for forming the molten polymericmaterial is preferably provided in an irregular form having a maximumdimension in the range of from 1.5 to 4 mm. Preferably, the polymericmaterial is provided in an irregular form, having dimensions ofapproximately 3.3 mm×3 mm×2.2 mm.

The master batch pigment has particle size which is less than the denierof the fibers from which the yarn is formed.

Preferably, the master batch pigment has a particle size in the range offrom 20 nanometers to about 2 microns.

The process may further include a step of introducing a softening agentinto the molten polymeric material, so as to provide a softening effectto the knitted apparel fabric, prior to extrusion of the moltenpolymeric material.

The process may further include a step of introducing a dulling agent inthe range of approximately 0.4% to 1.5% by weight into the moltenpolymeric material so provide a requisite level of dullness to theknitted apparel fabric, prior to extrusion of the molten polymericmaterial. Preferably, the dulling agent is TiO2.

In a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a system for forming amulti-ply apparel fabric having predetermined requisite optical colourand pattern effect and having predetermined physical fabric propertiesfrom a plurality of yarn having said requisite optical colour andpattern and being formed from a plurality of polymeric dope dyed fibers,said system comprising:

a knitting assembly for knitting a plurality of yarn so as to form amulti-ply knitted apparel fabric having predetermined requisite opticalcolour and pattern effect and having predetermined physical fabricproperties;

a creel for carrying a plurality of bobbins; and

a plurality of guide members disposed for the guiding n yarn from nbobbins to the knitting assembly for the knitting with m yarn from mbobbins, wherein n and m are integers of two or greater;

wherein upon knitting of said yarn to form a multi-ply apparel fabric,said apparel fabric is formed having predetermined requisite opticalcolour and pattern effect and having predetermined physical fabricproperties effect devoid of optically detectable variants in saidrequisite optical colour and pattern effect; and.

wherein the yarn of n yarn and the yarn of m yarn are selected so as toprovide said predetermined optical colour and pattern effect and saidpredetermined fabric properties.

Preferably, the system is a commercial automatic knitting machine, andthe system is preferably a circular knitting machine.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

In order that a more precise understanding of the above-recitedinvention can be obtained, a more particular description of theinvention briefly described above will be rendered by reference tospecific embodiments thereof that are illustrated in the appendeddrawings. The drawings presented herein may not be drawn to scale andany reference to dimensions in the drawings or the following descriptionis specific to the embodiments disclosed.

Any variations of these dimensions that will allow the subject inventionto function for its intended purpose are considered to be within thescope of the subject invention. Thus, it is important to understand thatthese drawings depict only the typical embodiments of the invention andare not therefore to be considered as limiting in scope, the inventionwill be described and explained with additional specificity and detailthrough the use of the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 depicts a schematic representation of an example of an embodimentof a dope dyeing process as implemented within the present invention;

FIG. 2 shows an example of a cross-sectional geometry of a spinneret foruse in the extrusion of dope dyed fibers in accordance with the presentinvention;

FIG. 3a shows a schematic representation of an example of a circularknitting machine of the prior art in which the present invention may beimplemented;

FIG. 3b shows a further example for illustrative purposes of a schematicrepresentation of an example of a circular knitting machine of the priorart in which the present invention may be implemented;

FIG. 3c shows a schematic representation of a knitting machine of FIGS.3a and 3b from above;

FIG. 3d shows an example of the manner in which the present inventionmay be implemented in a knitting machine,

FIG. 4a depicts a photographic representation of an example of knitteddope dyed fabric exhibiting berre' effect;

FIG. 4b depicts an enlarged view of the example of the knitted dope dyedfabric exhibiting berre' effect of FIG. 4 a;

FIG. 4c depicts a photographic representation of an example of knitteddope dyed fabric with berre' effect obviated in accordance with thepresent invention; and

FIG. 4d depicts an enlarged view of the example of the knitted dope dyedfabric of FIG. 4c with berre' effect obviated in accordance with thepresent invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

The present invention provides a process and system for the productionof fibers and yarns for the production of fabrics for use in thecommercial implementation within the apparel industry.

The present invention further provides a process for the knitting ofsuch fibers and yarns for the formation of an apparel fabric for use inthe commercial implementation within the apparel industry.

The apparel industry demands fabrics to meet requirements such as colourfastness, weight, softness, degree of dullness or shininess, andbreathability or wicking, in order that such fabrics are suitable forthe formation of apparel.

Further, in order to meet the requisite optical requirements, any suchfabric for the use in apparel must be free from optically identifiabledefects, such as berre' effect or “weft bars” effect, whereby bands orlines of a different colour can be observed by the naked eye whichextend along or across a knitted fabric, which are unacceptable withinthe apparel industry. Within the field of dyeing and productionprocesses of apparel fabrics, there exist numerous processes forproviding coloration to such fabrics including the processes as referredto above in the prior art.

However, such processes exhibit deficiencies and drawbacks when utilizedfor the preparation of fabrics for apparel, including lack ofcolorfastness, lack of consistency and repeatability of colour, fading,ultraviolet degradation, cost of manufacture, hostile manufacturingprocess, excessive consumption of resources such as water, highelectricity and power consumption, long processing cycle durations, useof toxic chemicals during processing and potential exposure of suchtoxic chemicals to persons engaged in manufacturing, excessive wastematerials and disposal requirements thereof, and disposal of highlytoxic and corrosive byproduct waste materials.

Of paramount importance in the manufacture of apparel, in respect ofcoloration, are the properties of colorfastness and repeatability andconsistency of colour. Fading or change of colour of a apparel reducesthe longevity of the apparel, as such effects are considered undesirableto users.

In particular, in commercial applications whereby the longevity of aparticular colour is required, such as in work uniforms or sports teamsuniforms whereby a particular colour is required and whereby teammembers are required to have the same coloured uniforms, lack ofcolorfastness renders an apparel to have a limited term of use.Furthermore, in such cases where a particular colour of a brand orwhereby a colour is associated with a uniform, it is important thatapparel have consistent coloring and as such, a high-level repeatabilityof manufacture of colour of materials to be used for apparel isrequired.

Materials as utilized for the production of apparel fabrics must haveinherent physical properties which renders such materials applicable forthe formation of apparel, and the specific properties of a fabric fromwhich apparel is formed and the fibers thereof must have appropriatephysical properties such as strength, flexibility, sizing such asdenier. As such, materials to form apparel fabrics, in addition tocolorfastness and repeatability must exhibit appropriate physicalproperties.

Knitting processes used in the apparel industry, must provide a fabricwhich is free from optical defects, and be of a consistent colourwithout variances or defects such as berre' effect or “weft bars”effect.

In order to provide such a fabric suitable for use in the production ofapparel which meets the requirements of the apparel industry, thepresent invention provides the following:

(i) Dope dyed fibers for the formation of yarn for a knitting processwhich is suitable for use in the production of an apparel fabric; and

(ii) a yarn and a knitting process which provides an apparel fabricwhich is of a consistent colour and which is free from opticallydetectable defects such as berre' effect or “weft bars” effect such thatthe apparel fabric is suitable for use in the production of apparel andsatisfies industry expectations of fabrics for such apparel

A dope dyed fiber and yarn for use in the production of apparel fabricin accordance with the present invention exhibits colorfastness andrepeatability of colour, as well as obviating deficiencies associatedwith the prior art including those as recited above, as there areprovided fibers and yarn which are coloured during the manufacturingprocess.

The present invention is realized by the provision of a process andsystem for the manufacture of an apparel fabric, whereby the apparelfabric is formed from dope dyed coloured fibers which have suitablephysical and sizing parameters and properties, which are used to form anapparel fabric of a requisite colour for use in apparel.

Accordingly, and in accordance with the present invention, there isprovided a process and system for the manufacture of apparel fabrics,whereby colored fibers are produced having a suitable size and materialproperties for use in production of apparel fabrics.

In order to provide such a suitable fabric for use as an apparel, thepresent invention provides a process and system, whereby the fibers fromwhich a yarn is formed are formed having a requisite colour, prior tothe formation of the yarn from which the apparel fabric is formed andprior to formation of the apparel fabric, which is in contrast to theprior art whereby fiber and/or yarn and/or fabric for apparel fabric aredyed after the fiber and/or yarn and/or fabric is formed.

By providing fibers which are dyed during the manufacture of the fibers,the fibers are formed so as to have a requisite colour during themanufacturing process, the fibers are provided with a uniform colourthrough the thickness of the fiber. This provides monofilaments withexcellent colour fastness, and resistant to fading due to ultraviolet(“UV”) effects.

Furthermore and importantly, by using such a fiber for formation of ayarn for the preparation of apparel fabrics, ease of reproducibility ofcolour is achievable between batches.

In accordance with the present invention, so as to provide such acoloured fiber, a dope dyeing process is utilized so as to providecoloured fibers that are suitably sized for the preparation for apparelfabrics.

In order to utilise a dope dyeing process to provide a dope dyed apparelfabric, the present inventors have implemented a process whereby:

(i) Novel fibers having a denier as fine as in the range of from 0.4 to2.2 denier are produced for use in the production of a yarn suitable foruse, in accordance with the present invention, in the formation of anapparel fabric.

In accordance with the present invention, typical ranges of denier anddiameter of fibers as utilized in the present invention are shown below,as well as the denier of yarn incorporating such fibers.

TABLE 1 Ranges of Fiber and Yarn Sizes and Amounts Min Typical Max Fiber0.4 denier 1 denier 2.2 denier Fiber/ 0.2 micron diam. 0.5 micron diam.1.1 micron diam. filament yarn count 45 denier 75 denier 200 denier

Unless a mono fiber is formed from a dope dyeing process according tothe present invention having one single thread is utilized in a knittingprocess, yarns are formed from multiple fibers for the subsequentknitting thereof to form an apparel fabric.

By way of example, yarns having a Denier “D” and “f” number of fibersapplicable for use in the present invention are as follows:

TABLE 2 Example of Number of Fibers per Yarn and Denier of Yarn andFibers Ratio of Denier of Yarn to no. of Fibers Denier of Fiber 45D/48feach filament equivalent to 0.9375D 75D/36f each filament equivalent to2.08333D 75D/72f each filament equivalent to 1.04166D 100D/192f eachfilament equivalent to 0.5208D 150D/288f each filament equivalent to0.5208D.

(ii) Coloration is provided during the dope dyeing process whereby amaster batch pigment is utilised, whereby the particle size isappropriately sized for forming fibers of such a fine denier, where themaster batch pigment being in the nanometer range of as low as 20nanaometers, and as high as the micrometer range where applicable suchas 1 micron for yellow colour dyes and 2 microns for turquoise colourdyes. Typically, particle size is less than the denier of the fiber fromwhich the yarn is formed, for example wherein the size of the masterbatch is about 0.06 microns.

(iii) A polymeric material applicable for forming the apparel fabric isutilized.

In accordance with the present invention, synthetic materials that aresuitable for use for the formation of coloured fibers include polymericmaterials such as nylon, polyester, acrylic and polyolefin and blendsthereof.

In order to further utilise a dope dyeing process to provide a dope dyedapparel fabric, the present inventors have identified that perceivedoptical colour variance of an apparel fabric is caused by barre' effector “weft bars” effect, whereby optically there exists an opticalvariation of colour of the fabric, which is typically a banding effect,which may result in a fabric being unsuitable for use in the apparelindustry due to market rejection of such materials in view of uniformityof colour, whereby colour uniformity is inherently a requirement forapparel fabrics.

Furthermore, the present inventors have identified parameters which areinfluential in causing any such barre' effect or “weft bars” effect, andstill further the present inventors have identified a process which cansubstantially mitigate or alleviate such barre' effect or “weft bars”effect, such that a dope dyed fabric is produced which is an apparelfabric meeting the industrial and commercial requirements of a fabricfor the apparel industry, as well as providing the above and belowmentioned advantages as afforded by the production of dope dyed fibersand a fabric formed from yarn comprising of such dope dyed fibers.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a process and system forproducing an apparel fabric formed from a yarn comprised of dope dyedfibers, which is suitable for the production of apparel.

Example of Dope Dyeing Process and System of Invention

Referring to FIG. 1, there is shown a schematic representation 100 of anexample of an embodiment of a dope dyeing process as implemented withinthe present invention.

Step 1—Blending

A master batch pigment 110 is provided, having a particle size less thanthe denier of the fibers from which the yarn is formed. A polymericmaterial 120 from which the fibers are to be formed, for examplePolyethylene Terephthalate (“PET”) for the formation of a nylon fiber,is provided in a chip form. Such chips as used are typically sizedhaving a maximum dimension in the range of from 2 mm to 3 mm, and areprovided in an irregular form, having dimensions such as 3.3 mm×3 mm×2.2mm. In accordance with the present invention, a dope dyeing process hasbeen utilized with a master batch pigment 110 of particle size in therange of 20 nanometres to 4 microns such that fibers/filaments having asize range of 0.4 to 2.2 denier can be produced, so as to be applicablefor the production of a fabric having properties suitable for use forthe manufacture of apparel. A maximum dye content of 4.2% by weight istypically introduced for use in the present invention.

A blending device 130 is provided for providing a blending step, whichblends the master batch pigment 110 with the polymeric material 120therein until a suitably blended mixture is provided.

Additives can also be introduced at this step, such as introduction of asoftening agent.

Also, in order to provide a fiber for the formation of a yarn for theproduction of an apparel fabric having an appropriate luster, a dullingagent can be introduced into the mixture of the pigment and the PETchip, such as TiO₂. By way of example, approximately 0.6% by weight TiO₂can be introduced so as provide a semi-dullness apparel fabric, andapproximately 1.2% by weight TiO₂ can be introduced so as to provide afull-dullness apparel fabric.

The mixing step is typically carried out at room temperature, or ambienttemperature of the location in which the mixing is conducted.

Step 2—Melting

Following the mixing step 1, a melting step 2 is carried out whichprovides for the melting of the blend of master batch pigment 110 andthe polymeric material 120 and the abovementioned additives, at atemperature of approximately 280 to 290 degree Celsius inside a reactionchamber 140, such that the polymeric material 120, which is thencoloured due to the master batch pigment 110, is in a suitably meltedand viscous form.

Some agitation by way of mechanical means, such as a stirring mechanism,is preferably utlised to provide for additional equal distribution andmixing, so as to result in an evenly coloured viscous material.

Step 3—Cooling

A cooling step is then provided, whereby the molten mixture is cooled toapproximately 160 degrees Celsius, such that the mixture remains in aviscous state.

Step 4—Extrusion

Following the cooling step, the viscous material is then extrudedthrough a plurality of spinnerets, which are of a plurality ofapertures, whereby the spinnerets have a size approximately 2 to 3 timesthe requisite size of the fibers.

Examples of sizes of fibers applicable to the present invention arerecited above in Table 1.

In accordance with the present invention, to ensure that the apparelfabric has suitable breathability by way of wicking effect, thespinnerets are provided with a cross-sectional geometry such thatlongitudinal recesses or rebates are formed along the length of theextruded fiber. An example of such a suitable cross-sectional geometryis shown in FIG. 2.

With reference to FIG. 2, an extruded fiber 200 is shown which has across sectional geometry and shape dependent upon that of a spinneretfrom which it has been extruded.

In the present example, the fiber 200 has a cross-sectional geometryhaving 4 lobes 210. As is depicted, the lobes 210 form between anadjacent lobe recesses or rebates 220. As will be understood andappreciated by those skilled in the art, when a plurality of fibers 200are wound so as to form a yarn as described with reference to Step 5below, the rebates cause interstices or vacancies to be formed withinthe yarn, which provides breathability by way of wicking effect for anarticle of apparel knitted from such yarn.

Step 5—Winding

In order to provide the requisite yarn for subsequent knitting to forman apparel fabric, the extruded fibers are wound onto a plurality ofbobbins 150, whereby a number of fibers are wound onto each bobbin so asto form a yarn.

Examples of the number of fibers wound onto a bobbin to form a requisiteyarn in accordance with the present invention are shown in Table 2above. A typical number of fibers that are used in accordance with thepresent invention to form one yarn is 72 fibers.

During the winding process, the fibers forming the yarns are interlacedtogether, typically by localised fusion providing a cross-connectionbetween fibers, which maintains the fibers together as a yarn andprevents the yarn from falling apart.

During the winding process, the fibers are cooled to approximately 140degree Celsius to 150 degrees Celsius.

The wound yarn is a Pre-Oriented Yarn (“POY”) and at this stage in theprocess is not suitable for forming an apparel fabric by way ofknitting.

Depending upon the type of yarn to be utilised, the yarn is thenprocessed to form a (A) filament yarn or (B) a staple yarn by subsequentprocessing.

(A) Filament Yarn

In order to provide a filament yarn, a drawing step 160 is subsequentlyprovided after Step 5 above, whereby the yarn is drawn which regulatesthe size or denier of the yarn. Included in the drawing step is atexturizing process, so as to provide characteristics to the yarn andrendering it suitable for apparel fabric formation, whereby thefollowing attributes are imparted to the yarn:

(i) Functionality;

(ii) Optical impression as being a yarn for fabric production; and

(iii) Feel or tactile attributes, rending the yarn to have the suitabletactile attributes such that when knitted into an apparel fabric thefabric meets the requisite texture as appropriate for the apparelindustry.

During the texturing process, the yarn may be treated so as to be, forexample, Drawn Textured Yarn (“DTY”) or Air Textured Yarn (“ATY”).

In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the yarn ispreferably Drawn Textured Yarn, and including a “False Twist” bytechniques as known in the art, so as to impart an elastic attribute tothe yarn as a crinkle, as is known by those skilled in the art. In sucha process, as is known by those skilled in the art, by the use, by wayof example, of friction disks and heat setting.

Accordingly, the three above attributes at (i), (ii) and (iii) areimparted to the yarn, rendering it suitable for knitting of apparelfabric, which is wound onto a spindle 170.

After such processing of the yarn, an apparel fabric may be formed byway of a knitting process.

(B) Staple Yarn Formation

When a staple yarn is required, the POY yarn is cut into lengths, forexample 2.5 cm in length, by a cutting process 180, and a spinningprocess 190, such as used in cotton spinning, is utilised.

A yarn having a high Turns Per Inch (“TPI”) can be formed by processesas known by those skilled in the art, with a high twist, in order toprovide a yarn with the requisite properties suitable for the formationof an apparel fabric.

It is noted that whilst dope dyeing processes have been used for theproduction of large coloured fibers formed from materials such asacrylic, nylon/polyamide and polyester for other technical fields, suchuse is limited to the production of fibers for use for formingindustrial products such as nylon or synthetic rope, fishing and safetynets and the like, with limited colours such as navy, red and black.

However, the fibers produced in such industries are not suitable for usein the apparel fabric technical field, due to the fibers having a crosssection or denier excessively large so as to render the fibersnon-applicable for use in the production of apparel fabrics.

Furthermore, the particle size of pigments utilized in dope dyeingprocesses according to the prior art cannot be used for the productionof fibers suitably sized for the production of apparel fabrics whichprovide requisite colorfastness and repeatability of colour betweenbatches.

Still further, such yarn of the prior art are also not suitable for theformation of apparel fabric due to such yarn not having the requisitebreathability, texture, elastic properties or optical properties.

Example of Dope Dyeing Process of the Present Invention

By way of example, a general comparison between a traditional hightemperature polyester dyeing process and dope dyed polyester process inaccordance with the present invention is described.

Referring to Table 3, the parameters of a traditional high temperaturepolyester dyeing process and a dope dyeing process are shown.

By way of background, a traditional high temperature polyester dyeingprocess is described by referring to Table 3 below, the process andparameters of, whereby the dyestuffs that apply is disperse dye and thecolour depth is a medium colour.

In this example, a 1000 kg batch under liquor to goods (i.e. fabric)ratio at 1:8 dark colour by use of a 4 tube high temperature dyeingmachine with each tube having a loading at about 250 kg, is used.

A summary of parameters of the processes utilized for the two processesare shown in Table 3, whereby the work flow steps are as follows,showing step durations, chemicals used and amounts, temperatures andvolumes of water:

1. A Pre-treatment process is applied for the removal of knitting oiland dirt during knitting process, as is represented by 1^(st) bath,

2. A dyeing is applied, which is a colouring process to apply predisperse, that is dissolved disperse dye with a pH and temperaturedyeing curve as is represented by the 2^(nd) bath,

3. A wash off process is subsequently applied, as is represented by the3^(rd) and 4^(th) baths,

4. Reduction clearing is subsequently utilised so as to remove theunfixed dye under a reduction condition under a strong alkali bath, asrepresented by the 5^(th) bath,

5. A Wash off process is subsequently applied as is represented by the6^(th) & 7^(th) baths,

6. A neutralization step is subsequently utilised, including theapplication of acid to remove the strong alkali so as to provide a skinfriendly pH, as represented by the 8^(th) bath, and

7. A softening step is subsequently applied, whereby a softener isapplied, as represented by the 9^(th) bath.

Further referring to Table 3, the steps of a dope dyeing process andprocess parameters are shown for a dope dyed polyester, with theworkflow and steps as follows:

1. a rinsing step is utilised, as represented by the 1^(st) bath,whereby a rinsing step is applied, and

2. following the rinsing step, a softening step is applied asrepresented by the 2^(nd) bath.

As will be noted, by comparison, the traditional high temperaturepolyester dyeing process utilizes 9 bath steps in comparison with theprocessing of a dope dyed material having just 2 steps, and usessignificantly more water at higher temperatures.

TABLE 3 Parameters and Steps of Processes Traditional High TemperaturePolyester dyeing Vs Dope Dyed Polyester (based on 1,000 kgs batch underliquor to good ratio at 1:8, dark color Traditional high temperaturedyeing No. of bath Function Duration(mins) Chemical used AmountTemperature Water amount (L) 1st rinsing 30 detergent 0.5 g/l  4 kgs  50C. 8000 2^(nd) dyeing 240 dyes + pH buffer — 132 C. 8000 3^(rd) wash off20 — — room 8000 4^(th) wash off 20 — — room 8000 5^(th) reduction clear30 Caulk + Hydros 32 kgs each  80 C. 8000 6^(th) wash off 30 — — room8000 7th wash off 30 — — room 8000 8th neutralization 30 Acetic acid 0.5cc/l  4 kgs room 8000 9th softening 30 softener 4% 40 kgs  50 C. 8000Total time consumed: 460 Total water consumed: 72000 Equivalent to: 72litres/kg fabric Dope dyed No. of bath Function Duration(mins) Chemicalused Amount Temperature Water amount (L) 1st rinsing 30 detergent 0.5g/l  4 kgs 50 C. 8000 2nd softening 30 softener 4% 40 kgs 50 C. 8000Total time consumed: 60 Total water consumed: 16000 Equivalent to: 16litres/kg fabric

With reference to Table 4 below, a parametric comparison between atraditional high temperature polyester dyeing process and the dope dyedprocess is provided as follows:

TABLE 4 Summary of Benefits of Present Invention Environmental benefitsof dope dyed polyester Water saving of 77%, or 56 liter per 1 kilo ofpolyester Reduce electricity consumption by 168 kw per 1 ton ofpolyester: main pump at 24 kw/hr winch at 4 kw/h Total 28 kw/hr × 6hours reduced cycle time = 168 kw. Reduce energy consumption (steam) by5,082,880 KJ per 1 ton of polyester. Dyeing temperature at 132 − 30(room temperature ) = 102 degrees Celsius Reduction clearance (ETPEffluent Treatment Plant) 80 − 30 = 50 degrees Celsius

By way of example, for a factory producing 36 million articles ofapparel per year, utilizing the present invention for the colouring ofapparel in comparison to the typical high temperature polyester dyeingas utilized presently in the art, the following environmental andeconomic advantages are provided:

(i) A water saving of approximately 504,000,000 litres per year isprovided, on the basis of 9 million kgs of fabric at 56 litres of waterper kg of fabric;

(ii) A reduction of electricity consumption by 1,512,000 kW per year, at168 kW per tonne×9,000 tonnes

(iii) A reduction of energy consumption due steam by 45.75 billion kJ,total 5,082,880 KJ per tonne×9,000 tonnes

(iv) Zero discharge of chemicals, as with the present invention, theonly chemicals used are a softener and a detergent, and the presentinvention provides no toxic sludge and no chemicals are released intothe environment.

Advantages of Dope Dyeing Process of the Present Invention

As is demonstrated by Table 3 and Table 4 and as discussed above, theprocess and system according to the present invention, providessignificant advantages over the process of the prior art.

Such advantages include:

(a) Colorfastness, Stability and Reproducibility

Provides a fiber with high colorfastness suitable for use in textilefabric

Provides a fiber which has high colour stability, and resistance to UVdegradation, suitable for use in textile fabric

Provides a process for providing a fiber suitable for use in textilefabric, whereby reproducibility of fiber colour is readily repeatablebetween manufacturing batches.

(b) Cost saving/Economic advantages:

Significant reduction in water consumption

Significant reduction in electricity consumption as consumed by priorart for pump, winches and the like, as well as reduced cycle timerequiring less electricity

Significant energy consumption reduction due to lower thermalrequirements and less steam required.

(c) Environmental Advantages:

Due to less number of cycles and elevated temperatures, and theobviation of a high dyeing temperature cycle and the reduction ofclearance cycle, significantly reduced thermal loading is transferred tothe environment from the system of the present invention.

Obviation of toxic waste and the release of such waste into theenvironment

(d) OHS (Occupational Health and Safety) attributes:

No usage of toxic chemicals, and hence less likelihood of exposure oftoxic chemicals to production workers and the environment

Lower ambient temperatures in the workplace, providing preferable workconditions

Formation and Production of Knitted Apparel Fabric According to thePresent Invention

As mentioned above, in addition to the breathability, texture andelastic properties as required of an apparel fabric, it is necessarythat any such apparel fabric is free of any optical defects.

Such common optical defects are barre' effect or “weft bars” effectwhich may be introduced during the knitting process for the forming of afabric from dope dyed yarn as provided by the present invention, so asto provide uniformity of colour for apparel fabrics for the apparelindustry.

There exist several causes of the berre' effect within the fabricindustry, which include:

(i) Periodic count variation in the weft yarn arising out of rollereccentricity or mechanical defects in the spinning preparatoryprocesses.

(ii) Mixing of weft of different counts, different twist levels,different directions of doubling twist and different brightness levelsespecially in filaments.

(iii) Mixing of spun blended yarns produced from synthetic fibers ofdifferent merge numbers.

(iv) Manufacturing defect in filaments such as variation in denier.

(v) count difference in weft,

(vi) excessive tension in the weft feed package, especially infilaments,

(vii) variability in pick density and difference in twist,

(viii) colour or shade of adjacent group of picks,

(ix) difference in blend composition or in the cottons used.

It has been found that a knitted fabric utlising yarn as describedabove, in accordance with the present invention, has the presence ofberre' effect.

One manner in which the berre' effect of knitted fabrics can be somewhatmitigated, is by providing a colour assessment process and knittingadjustment process. As is known by those in the art, an industrialknitting process comprises the interlacing of a plurality of yarns beingintroduced by a corresponding plurality of bobbins about which the yarnsare wound. Various arrangements are used in the fabric industry, forexample 102 or 114 bobbins, which carry the corresponding yarn to beknitted.

In order to assess the colour, a knitted sample is formed from eachbobbin, and the colour parameters of the knitted fabric is thenassessed, after which depending upon the colour assessment, a designatedpositon on the creel is assigned for a particular bobbin, which may beused to mask or overcome berre' or weft bar effect of a resultantknitted fabric caused by small alteration in denier of fibers and othercontributing factors including those as recited above.

In such a technique of the prior art, there exist several colourparameters which may be assessed, and these may be either effected byeye, or by electronic image capture and subsequent computer analysis.Such parameters in clue darkness/lightness, hue, chroma or the like.

According to the prior art, the following process can be used:

a tubular knit down in the form of a tubular sock type article, wherebythe sock is made to a predetermined diameter for each bobbin,

(ii) a testing panel of a predetermined size is inserted within the sockand the sock stretched thereover,

(iii) the colour parameters of the sock are assessed, whereby the colourparameters are assessed over a predetermined gauge length, and

(iv) depending upon the assessed colour properties, a bobbin is placedat a location on the creel of the knitting machine system in order toreduce the berre' effect.

For example, for a tubular sample stretched over a testing panel, thepanel is of a requisite colour, such as a dark colour or white colour,depending upon the colour of the fabric being assessed. An opticalassessment may be made, for example if the knitted fabric is “dark” or“light”, and a bobbin's position in a creel selected and alteredaccordingly.

In order to mask the berre' effect, various relocation assessments maybe made and bobbins relocated, for example as a dark/light/dark lightrearrangement criteria, or a dark/dark/light/light rearrangementcriteria, or a dark/dark/light/dark/dark/light criteria.

However, whilst such a technique goes some way in reducing berre'effect, the present inventors have found that for knitted apparel fabricformed from dope dyed yarn according to the present invention, theberre' effect can only be sufficiently reduced by approximately 60% to70% of the time.

The above technique takes approximately half a day to assess the yarnfrom the bobbins and provide an arrangement of the bobbins on the creelwith a view to overcoming any berre' effect. However, due to the successrate of approximately 60% to 70%, once a knit down process has commencedand after which if the berre' effect present is detected, this will havea very large detrimental effect in that large runs of knitted fabricneed to be disposed of if the berre' effect is indeed present.

Unlike non-dope dyed fabric of the prior art which can be somewhatreprocessed if a berre' effect is found, dope dyed knitted fabric canonly be disposed of.

Accordingly, within the apparel fabric knitting process, for dope dyedyarn, the following detrimental and prohibitive attributes exist withinthe prior art:

(i) excessive set-up times for initial bobbin adjustment;

(ii) possible further adjustment and relocation of bobbins may berequired after production has commenced;

(iii) particularly skilled and trained persons are required to effectsuch a bobbin relocation technique;

(iv) there exists inconsistency in such a technique due to humandetermination of bobbin placement based on experience where humanassessment does affect repeatability;

(v) if berre' effect occurs during a production run, it is required thatsuch skilled persons be present to effect remedial action, which is notalways possible in the apparel industry as knit down runs often areeffected 24 hours per day, and appropriately skilled staff are notalways on-site on standby 24 hours per day;

(vi) using such a technique, which is reliant on human judgement,between manufacturing runs of knitting of apparel fabric, there may beinconsistency between runs depending upon the consistency of a person orbetween different persons;

(vii) other parameters such as yarn tension can also influence berre'effect, and as such, between different knitting machines, there can bedifferent requirements in set-up and location of bobbins;

(viii) parameters outside the control of knitting machine operators canaffect the results of reduction of berre' effect, and further result inunexpected berre' effect which can be difficult to correct;

(ix) the down time during initial set-up of bobbins to reduce berre'effect, as well as interruption of knitting to correct berre' effect,causes significant operational costs; and

(x) as dope dyed knitted fabric having berre' effect cannot becorrected, significant financial loss is incurred due to disposal ofunusable fabric as well as disposal costs.

As is understood by those skilled in the art, any apparel fabric havingberre' effect is unacceptable and will be immediately rejected by theapparel industry and the market.

It should be noted and as known and understood by those skilled in theart, it is not commercially viable or acceptable in the apparel industryto utilise a fabric which has a success rate of only 60% to 70%satisfying industry requirements, as the cost of loss and delay makesany such process not economically viable within the apparel industry.

Accordingly, although a dope dyed fabric has the above product,commercial, environmental, occupational health and safety, andmanufacturing cost advantages, such a fabric having berre' effect, whichcannot be obviated, cannot be commercially implemented.

Accordingly, the present inventors have provided a solution to obviatethe presence or occurrence of berre' effect of knitted dope dyed fabricswhich overcomes the above recited disadvantages, whilst still providingall product, commercial, environmental, occupational health and safety,and manufacturing cost advantages.

As such, the present inventors have overcome all deficiencies andimpediments of fabrics and manufacturing techniques of the prior art, soas to provide a commercially viable and effective dope dyed apparelfabric which is acceptable by the apparel industry.

In order to provide such an apparel fabric which does not exhibit theberre' effect, the present invention provides a process as follows:

(i) the appropriate apparel requisite yarn denier for an apparel articleis determined, which is the denier of the requisite yarn from which thefabric is knitted,

(ii) the requisite yarn denier is divided by an integer of two orgreater,

(iii) a multi-ply yarn for knitting is provided by two or more yarn,whereby the denier of each yarn of the multi-ply yarn collectivelyprovide the requisite yarn denier for the knitting process, and

(iv) knitting is performed using such multi-ply yarns.

For example, if the total denier of the yarn for a fabric is to be 150denier, dividing 150 denier by two dictates that two yarn each of 75denier are to be used as a “multi-ply” yarn. Alternatively and forexample, if a 150 denier yarn is required for the fabric, then threeyarn each of 50 denier may be used to form such a “multi-ply” yarn.

It has been found and demonstrated by the present inventors that theabove process consistently provides an apparel fabric devoid of berre'effect, and which consistently provides an apparel fabric acceptable tothe market in the apparel industry.

The above process has the advantages over the above-described berre'effect reduction technique of the prior art, including:

(i) 100% delivery of apparel fabric devoid of berre' effect;

(ii) no necessity for special pre-production colour assessment runs andanalysis;

(iii) no necessity for specially trained technicians;

(iv) no inconsistency due to human error or human subjectivity;

(v) no exposure to large amounts of down time;

(vi) no large and excessive fabric loss costs, loss in production time,and costs for disposal; and

(vii) no reliance on arbitrary adjustment, or machine idiosyncrasies, orknitting machine parameter fluctuation.

Referring to FIG. 3a there is shown a schematic representation of anexample of a circular knitting machine 300 of the prior art in which thepresent invention may be implemented. In such a knitting machine 300,there are a plurality of bobbins 310, typically 102 or 114 bobbins,which contain yarn 320 and are supported upon a creel 330 for theweaving of a fabric 340 which is accumulated on a fabric roller 350.

Whilst not depicted in the present diagram, those skilled in the art areaware that the plurality of bobbins can be circumferentially displacedin a circular type knitting machine 300 as depicted in the presentexample. In other and alternate knitting machine arrangements, thebobbins need not necessarily be circumferentially disposed, but may havethe yarn guided to the knitting machine so as to be introduced atappropriate locations for the knitting thereof by a knitting machine,for the generation of a knitted fabric. Accordingly, no physicallimitations are to be inferred by the use of the diagram of FIG. 3a forexplanatory purposes, and no physical limitations are to be inferred orimported into or applied to the inventive concept of the presentinvention.

As will also be appreciated by those skilled in the art, there existnumerous manners in which the various integers of knitting machines maybe implemented for the knitting and subsequent winding of a knittedfabric, and that the schematic representation of FIG. 3a is used solelyfor explanatory purposes, and that the present invention may beimplemented in more complex knitting machine arrangements than that asexpressed in FIG. 3 a.

As will be seen from FIG. 3a and is known by those skilled in the art, ayarn 320 from each bobbin is guided by one of more guides 360, which maybe eyelets, and each yarn 320 from each bobbin is then passed through atensioner 370 which provides correct tensioning to the yarn 320 forknitting, and subsequently each yarn 320 is then delivered to theknitting assembly which then knits each yarn 320 with other yarn forexample by way of a feeder 380 and latch needle 390, so as to provide afabric 340 comprised of knitted yarns 320.

Referring to FIG. 3b , there is shown an further example forillustrative purposes of a schematic representation of an example of acircular knitting machine 300 a of the prior art in which the presentinvention may be implemented. In such a knitting machine 300 a, theplurality of bobbins 310 a is shown as extending circumferentially aboutthe axis of the knitting machine 300 a bobbins, which also contain yarn320 a tensioned by tensioners 370 a and are supported upon a creel 330 afor the weaving of a fabric 340 a. As is shown, each yarn 320 a fromeach bobbin 310 is fed or delivered into the knitting assembly forsubsequent knitting.

Referring to FIG. 3c , there is depicted a schematic representation of aknitting machine 300 from above as used in the prior art, whereby asshown there is a plurality of bobbins 310 circumferentially disposed ona creel 330. As is shown, each yarn 320 from each bobbin 310 passesthrough a tensioner 370 for subsequent knitting. In such a system of theprior art, for a fabric to be formed from for example utilising 150denier yarn, each yarn used on each bobbin 310 is of 150 denier, and thefabric knitted from such yarn is a 150 denier fabric.

With reference to FIG. 3d , an example of the manner in which thepresent invention may be implemented in a knitting machine is shown. Thepresent invention provides for multi-ply knitting, in order to eliminateberre' effect in a knitted apparel fabric using the novel dope-dyed yarnas provided by the present invention.

As described above, the berre' effect cannot be mitigated so as to meetthe optical requirements of an apparel fabric formed from dope dyed yarnby processes or techniques of the prior art such as when using a systemand arrangement as described in reference to FIG. 3c , however, thepresent invention, by providing a multi-ply knitted apparel fabric andsystem and process for forming such a multi-ply apparel fabric, obviatesthe commercially limiting factor of berre' effect.

The present invention provides a knitting machine and process whichallows for multi-ply yarn to be knitted so as to form a multi-plyknitted apparel fabric, such that no visually detectable berre' effectwithin the apparel is present.

In order to provide such a multi-ply yarn, the present inventors havefound and proven that the knitting by the knitting assembly of aknitting machine, whereby multi-ply yarn is fed or delivered to theknitting assembly, provides such a kitted berre' effect free fabricsuitable for the apparel industry.

As shown in the example of FIG. 3d in accordance with the presentinvention, the manner in which the present invention may be implementedin a knitting machine, is by feeding a plurality of dope dyed yarn as amulti-ply yarn to the knitting assembly of a knitting machine 300 d.

In the present example, a plurality of guides or eyelets 375 d isprovided after the tensioners 370 d and as such, multi-ply dope dyedyarn is fed to the knitting assembly such that the knitted fabric is amulti-ply dope dyed fabric.

Also, as mentioned above, if the total denier of the yarn for a fabricis to be 150 denier, dividing 150 denier by two dictates that two yarneach of 75 denier are to be used as a “multi-ply” yarn. Alternativelyand for example, if a 150 denier yarn is required for the fabric, thenthree yarn each of 50 denier may be used to form such a “multi-ply”yarn.

In the present example, a two-ply yarn is utilised and as such, oneguide or eyelet 375 d is provided between a pair of adjacent tensioners375 d. Each bobbin 310 d carries thereon a yarn 320 d having half thedenier of the requisite denier from which the fabric is to be formed,and yarn 320 d from two tensioners is fed through each guide or eyelet375 d such that two yarn 320 d each of half the requisite denier isreceived by each guide or eyelet 375 d such that a multi-ply yarn, inthis case a two-ply yarn 325 d, is fed to the knitting assembly.

As will be appreciated by those skilled in the art, the above describedexample is one manner in which a multi-ply yarn may be provided to theknitting assembly, and numerous alternate or other embodiments whichprovide the same technical effect are considered to fall within thescope of the invention.

Whilst the present invention has been described above in examples asbeing implemented in a solid colour fabric formed from one polymericmaterial fabric is to have, those skilled in the art will appreciate andunderstand that in such an example, the colour of the fibers as extrudedduring the dope dyeing process may not necessarily be identical to thefabric as formed. As will be understood, the fabric will have arequisite or predetermined optical colour and pattern effect andpredetermined physical fabric properties, and the colour of the yarn andfibers from which the yarn is formed is determined based on the desiredpredetermined optical colour effect of the fabric. As will also beappreciated, parameters such as dullness of the yarn and the manner inwhich the knitting is performed, also have influence on the opticalcolour and pattern effect and predetermined physical fabric propertiesof the fabric.

As will be understood by those skilled in the art, although variousparameters determined the ultimate physical properties of a knittedfabric including density in knitting which is denoted in number ofends/picks per inch, the denier of the yarn is a predominant parameterinfluencing the density of the knitted fabric.

In other embodiments, the total denier of each multi-ply yarn need notnecessarily be the same as each other, and using such different deniermulti-ply yarn typically gives rise to a regular knit having a ruggedsurface. In such an embodiment, whereby thick and thin yarn are used, ajacquard knit may be produced.

Also, as will be appreciated by those skilled in the art, in other oralternate embodiments, the denier of the yarns forming a multi-ply yarnfor knitting in the present invention need not necessarily be equal. Forexample, in embodiments as described above, 2 yarn each of 75 denier areused to form a multi-ply yarn for the knitting with another multiplyyarn. However, in other embodiments, whereby the requisite denier ofmulti-ply yarn is 150 denier, the individual yarn may be for example 40denier, 50 denier and 60 denier, without departing from the scope of thepresent invention.

Furthermore, although within the above embodiments the yarn are formedfrom the same material polymeric material, as will be appreciated andunderstood by those skilled in the art, one multi-ply yarn of onepolymeric material may be knitted with another multi-ply yarn of adifferent polymeric material. In such a case, bobbins may carry yarnformed from different polymeric materials may be utilised. For example,a jacquared knit may be provided.

Also as will be understood, the yarn forming each multi-ply yarn forsubsequent knitting need not necessarily be formed from the samepolymeric material as the other yarn, and need not necessarily be formedof the same colour as the other yarn.

Still further, as will be appreciated by those skilled in the art, inother or alternate embodiments, the multi-ply yarn may have a differentcolour to that of another multi-ply yarn which it will be knitted with,so as to provide regular pattern effects, such as heather, stripes,motifs and the like.

Accordingly and as will be appreciated, the present invention is notlimited to solid colour knits, and different bobbins may carry yarn ofdifferent colours. Further, the denier of one multi-ply yarn need to bethe same as another multi-ply yarn which it is knitted with, and neednot necessarily be of the same colour or polymeric material. Stillfurther, the individual yarn which form each multi-ply yarn need not allnecessarily have the same denier, and in some alternate embodiments neednot necessarily be formed from the same colour or polymeric material.

The present invention, by implementation of a multi-ply knitting processutilising yarn formed from dope dyed fibers, obviates the commerciallyprohibitive berre' effect, which is demonstrated and described withreference to FIG. 4a and FIG. 4b below.

Referring to FIG. 4a , there is shown an enlarged photographicrepresentation of a portion of an apparel article 400 a which has beenknitted using dope dyed yarn of dope dyed fibers formed according to thepresent invention. However, the knitting process and arrangement asutilised to form the apparel fabric was that of the prior art asdescribed in reference to FIG. 3c , whereby a plurality of bobbins eachcaring thereon a dope dyed yarn of 150 denier and knitted so as to forma single-ply apparel fabric of 150 denier. As is shown, the apparelfabric 400 a clearly exhibits the berre' effect as denoted by lines 410a of an optically identifiable lighter colour. As shown, the berre'effect is denoted by lines 410 a having a periodic spacing ofapproximately 40 mm in the present example.

An enlarged photographic representation of the berre' effect of FIG. 4ais shown in FIG. 4b , whereby the apparel article 400 b has a berre'effect optically discernable be lines 410 b having a periodic spacing ofapproximately 40 mm.

Whilst techniques of the prior art as described above in reference tothe manner in which the berre' effect can be reduced have beendiligently pursued by the present inventors, it was not possible torepeatedly eliminate the presence of the berre' effect, and removal ofthe berre' effect could only be achieved 60% to 70% of the time, whichas described above inherently precludes such a process and fabricmaterial from applicability to the apparel industry.

By contrast and as shown and described in reference to FIG. 4c and FIG.4d , there is shown an enlarged photographic representation of a portionof an apparel article of 150 denier knitted from two-ply yarn each of 75denier, whereby the yarn has been knitted in accordance with a processand system according to the present invention such as is described withreference to FIG. 3d , and whereby the yarn is formed from dope dyedfibers according to the present invention.

The present invention is shown and proven to obviate the berre' effectand referring to FIG. 4c , there is shown an enlarged photographicrepresentation of a portion of an apparel article 400 c which has beenknitted using dope dyed yarn of dope dyed fibers formed according to thepresent invention. However, in the present example, the apparel articlehas been knitted in accordance with the knitting process and arrangementof the present invention as a multi-ply fabric, whereby the apparelarticle 400 c is a two-ply knitted fabric utilising a series of bobbinseach carrying thereof a yarn formed from dope dyed fibers whereby eachyarn has a denier of 75, resulting in a 150 denier knit.

As is clearly evident, there is no optically identifiable berre' effectpresent in the apparel article 400 c, and the apparel fabric from whichthe apparel article 400 c is formed satisfies the apparel industryrequirements as recited above and below. A comparative scale of 40 mm isshown, evidencing no berre' effect within such a period.

An enlarged photographic representation of FIG. 4c is shown in FIG. 4d ,whereby it is shown at increased magnification that as is clearlyevident, there is no optically identifiable berre' effect present in theapparel article 400 d, and the apparel fabric from which the apparelarticle 400 d is formed satisfies the apparel industry requirements asrecited above and below. A comparative scale of 40 mm is shown,evidencing no berre' effect within such a period.

As is shown, there exist no optically identifiable or discernable berre'effect in the apparel article 400 c or 400 d as a result of theimplementation of multi-ply dope dyed yarn of the present invention, andany optically observable berre' effect has been obviated, resulting in adope dyed knitted fabric suitable for the apparel industry.

The present inventors, through diligent and repeated trials andanalysis, have found and proven that the implementation of multi-plydope dyed yarn of the present invention in a knitting process and systemaccording to the present invention, obviates the necessity of techniquesof the prior art as described for reduction of berre' effect, and canprovide an apparel fabric suitable for the apparel industry and meetsuch repeatability requirements as recited above.

As will be understood, whilst the optical assessment and obviation ofberre' effect as described above is demonstrative that a dope dyed yarnformed from the dope dyeing process according to the present inventionmay be utilised for knitted fabrics satisfying the stringentrequirements of the apparel industry, other manners in which theobviation of the berre' effect which have been identified by the presentinventors to be caused by fluctuation of fiber and yarn denier and otherabove recited parameters are equally as applicable to the presentinvention and fall within the scope thereof.

The present invention provides a dope dyed fabric suitable for theapparel industry, which provides advantages over the prior artincluding:

(i) Colorfastness, stability and reproducibility,

(ii) Cost saving/economic advantages,

(iii) Environmental advantages, and

(iv) OHS (Occupational Health and Safety) attributes.

By implementation of a process for preparation of novel and suitablysized fibers for producing yarns applicable to the performancerequirements of an apparel fabric, and utilization of a dope dyedprocess incorporating suitably and sufficiently small particular sizemaster batch pigment particulates, a novel apparel fabric is provided bythe present invention.

Further, by the identification of parameters causing optical defectsunsuitable for apparel fabrics and determination of a process whichobviates such optical defects by using a multi-ply dope dyed yarn, thepresent invention has provided an apparel fabric which has bothfunctional and visual characteristics so as to render the novel fabricsuitable to the apparel industry.

In view of the global demand for fabrics suitable for the apparelindustry, the present invention by overcoming deficiencies of the priorart and providing advantages including those as recited above, providesa useful technical solution to such deficiencies.

Definitions

Apparel fabric is defined as fabric for the manufacture of apparel,whereby apparel include clothing and garments for the at least partialcovering of the body of a person, and articles of apparel includefashion, non-fashion and sportswear such shirts, t-shirts, tops,singlets, jerseys, dresses, skirts, shorts, trousers, undergarments,coats, jackets, scarves, shawls, swimwear and the like.

Apparel industry is defined as the industry of apparel, including themanufacture of yarn for the formation of apparel fabric, the manufactureof items from apparel fabric, the wholesaling of items of apparel, theretain of items of apparel, supply of items of apparel, and allintermediate steps there between.

Apparel industry requirements are defined as strict, uncompromising andunforgiving in standards in quality, reproducibility, efficiency andcost, and items of apparel and manufactures and suppliers thereof whocannot consistently meet the Apparel Industry standards will either notbe able to enter the industry or sustain a commercial position in theindustry.

Cellulosic Fiber

Cellulose is a fibrous material of plant origin and the basis of all andman-made cellulosic fibers. The natural cellulosic fibers includecotton, flax, hemp, jute, and ramie. Cellulose is a polymeric sugarpolysaccharide made up of repeating 1-4-8 hydro glucose units connectedto each other 8 ether linkage.

Colorfastness

It is the term used in the dyeing of textile materials, meaningresistance of the color to fading or running.

Denier

Unit to define yarn thickness, it is defined as the mass in grams per9,000 meters.

Disperse Dye

Water insoluble dyes that are engineered to color polyester under hightemperature to allow dye penetration into the fiber.

Dope Dye

The mass coloration of synthetic fiber by mixing the master batchpigments with the synthetic material through spinnerets into air andwater, forming a colored thread.

Foam Dye

The application by transporting the dyestuffs through foam instead ofwater. This application is particularly interested in pile fabric andbulky fabric, for example, carpet.

Lab Dips

The color formulation under a small scale to optimize colorants mixingpercentage and condition that use as a reference to carry bulk dyeing.

Master Batch

A solid or liquid additives for coloring plastics, which allows aprocessor to colour raw polymer economically during the plasticmanufacturing process. For polyester dope dyed, master batch is mixedwith polyester chip and melt spun to provide the colour yarn.

Micro Fiber

The term to define synthetic fiber thickness, it is agreed in the marketthat yarn thickness that is finer than or equivalent to one denier ordecitex per thread is termed as micro fiber.

Microns

The unit to express size of a tiny object, one micron is equivalent to10⁻⁶ meter.

Oligomer

The short chain polymer that decomposes under chemical or temperaturefrom chain breakage.

Polyester

A type of synthetic fiber that was obtained by reaction of dicarboxlicacids with dihydric alcohols commonly abbreviated PET, PETE with fullname Polyethylene terephthalate. It entered the market in 1950′ from itsoutstanding winkle free performance. Dupont market their polyester fiberunder the trademark Dacron and Terylene.

Synthetic Fiber

They are created by extruding fiber forming materials through spinneretsinto air and water, forming a thread. Synthetic fibers are made fromsynthesized polymers or small molecules such as petroleum basedchemicals or petrochemicals. These materials are polymerized into long,linear chemicals that bonds adjacent carbon atoms. Differing chemicalcompounds will be used to produce different types of fiber. Syntheticfibers account for about half of all fiber usage, with application inevery field of fiber and textile technology. Although many classes offibers base on synthetic polymers have been evaluated as potentiallyvaluable commercial products, four of them—nylon, polyester, acrylic andpolyolefin—dominate the market. These four products account forapproximately 98 percent by volume of synthetic fiber production, withpolyester alone accounting 60 percent.

1. A process of forming an apparel fabric having a predeterminedrequisite optical colour and pattern effect and having predeterminedphysical fabric properties, said process comprising the steps of:providing a first plurality of n yarn, wherein the total denier of nyarn is equal to a first denier (D₁); (ii) providing at least onefurther plurality of m yarn, wherein the total denier of m yarn is equalto a further Denier (D₂); (iii) forming a plurality of multi-ply yarneach formed from two or more yarn, wherein each multi-ply yarn is formedone of the first plurality of n yarn and the yarn of one of the furtherplurality of m yarn, whereby the denier of each yarn of the multi-plyyarn collectively provide the requisite yarn denier for a knittingprocess; and (iv) knitting the multi-ply yarn formed from the firstplurality of yarn with the at least one further plurality of yarn by wayof a knitting process so as to form a multi-ply apparel fabric whereineach yarn is formed from a plurality of fibers formed from a polymericmaterial, wherein the fibers are formed from a dope dyeing process andwherein said fibers are colored during said dope dyeing process; whereinupon knitting of the multi-ply yarn formed from said first plurality ofn yarn with said at least one further plurality of m yarn to form saidmulti-ply apparel fabric, said apparel fabric is formed having saidpredetermined requisite optical colour and pattern effect devoid ofoptically detectable variants in said requisite optical colour andpattern effect; and wherein the first plurality of n yarn and the atleast one further plurality of m yarn are selected so as to provide saidpredetermined optical colour and pattern effect and said predeterminedphysical fabric properties.
 2. A process according to claim 1, whereinthe first denier (D₁) and the further denier (D₂) are in the range offrom 45 denier to 200 denier.
 3. A process according to claim 1, whereineach yarn of the first plurality of n yarn and each yarn of the at leastfurther plurality of m yarn consists of p number of fibers whereby p isin the range of from 40 to 300, and wherein each fiber has a largestcross sectional diameter in the range of from 0.2 μm to 1.1 μm.
 4. Aprocess according to claim 1, wherein the polymeric material each yarnof the first plurality of n yarn and each yarn of the at least furtherplurality of m yarn is formed selected from the group includingPolyethylene Terephthalate, Polyester, Acrylic, Polyolefin, Nylon 6 andNylon 66 and blends thereof.
 5. A process according to claim 1, whereinthe polymeric material utilised in the dope dyeing process is ofirregular form having a maximum dimension in the range of from 1.5 to 4mm.
 6. A process according to claim 5, wherein the polymeric material isprovided in an irregular form, having dimensions of approximately 3.3mm×3 mm×2.2 mm.
 7. A process according to claim 1, wherein a masterbatch pigment is utilised in the dope dyeing process whereby theparticle size of the master batch is less than the denier of the fibersfrom which the yarn is formed.
 8. A process according to claim 1,wherein the master batch pigment has a particle size in the range offrom 20 nanometers to about 2 microns.
 9. A process according to claim1, wherein the dope dyeing process includes the introduction of asoftening agent, so as to provide a softening effect to the knittedapparel fabric.
 10. A process according to claim 1, wherein the dopedyeing process includes the introduction of a dulling agent in the rangeof approximately 0.4% to 1.5% by weight, so provide a requisite level ofdullness to the knitted apparel fabric.
 11. (canceled)
 12. (canceled)13. (canceled)
 14. A process according to claim 1, wherein the firstplurality of yarn and the at least a further plurality of yarn have thesame number of yarn.
 15. A process according to claim 1, wherein eachyarn of the first plurality of n yarn has the same denier such that eachyarn has a denier of (D₁)/n, and wherein each yarn of the at least onefurther plurality of m yarn has the same denier such that each yarn hasa denier of (D₂)/m.
 16. A process according to claim 1, wherein thefirst denier (D₁) is equal to the further Denier (D₂).
 17. (canceled)18. A process according to claim 1, wherein the requisite optical colourand pattern effect is a solid colour effect.
 19. A process according toclaim 1, wherein the requisite optical colour and pattern effect is aregular pattern effect or an irregular pattern effect.
 20. (canceled)21. (canceled)
 22. An article of apparel formed from a multi-ply knittedapparel material having a predetermined requisite optical colour andpattern effect and having predetermined physical fabric properties anddevoid of optically detectable variants in said requisite optical colourand pattern effect, whererin said apparel fabric comprises: a knit of aplurality of multi-ply yarn each formed from two or more yarn, whereineach multi-ply yarn is formed a plurality of n yarn and a furtherplurality of m yarn; wherein the total denier of n yarn is equal to afirst denier (D₁); and m yarn, wherein the total of m yarn is equal to afurther Denier (D₂), whereby the denier of each yarn of the multi-plyyarn collectively provide the requisite yarn denier for the knittedfabric; wherein each yarn is comprised of a plurality of coloured dopedyed fibers of a polymeric material, and wherein the plurality of n yarnand the plurality of m yarn provide said predetermined optical colourand pattern effect and said predetermined physical fabric properties.23. A process of forming a yarn consisting of dope dyed fibers forproduction of an apparel fabric of a predetermined requisite opticalcolour and pattern effect and having predetermined physical fabricproperties, said process including the steps of: (i) mixing a masterbatch dye of a requisite colour with a molten polymeric material so asto form a molten polymeric material of said requisite colour; (ii)extruding said molten polymeric material through a plurality ofspinnerets so as to form a plurality of dope dyed fibers of saidrequisite colour, wherein said spinnerets having a size of approximately2 to 3 times the requisite size of the fibers from which a yarn is to beformed; and (iii) winding a plurality of said fibers so as to form adope dyed yarn for subsequent forming an apparel fabric.
 24. A processaccording to claim 23, wherein the yarn has a denier is in the range offrom 45 denier to 200 denier.
 25. A process according to claim 23,wherein each yarn consists of a number of fibers in the range of from 40to
 300. 26. A process according to claim 23, wherein each fiber of saidyarn has a largest cross sectional diameter in the range of from 0.2 μmto 1.1 μm. 27.-34. (canceled)
 35. A system for forming a multi-plyapparel fabric having predetermined requisite optical colour and patterneffect and having predetermined physical fabric properties from aplurality of yarn having said requisite optical colour and pattern andbeing formed from a plurality of polymeric dope dyed fibers, said systemcomprising: a knitting assembly for knitting a plurality of yarn so asto form a multi-ply knitted apparel fabric having predeterminedrequisite optical colour and pattern effect and having predeterminedphysical fabric properties; a creel for carrying a plurality of bobbins;and a plurality of guide members disposed for the guiding n yarn from nbobbins to the knitting assembly for the knitting with m yarn from mbobbins, wherein each guide member guides one or more of the n yarn andone or more of the m yarn to the knitting assembly to form a multi-plyyarn for the knitting by the knitting assembly with another a multi-plyyarn for knitting of the multi-ply yarn with the another multi-ply yarnto form said multi-ply apparel fabric, wherein n and m are integers oftwo or greater; wherein upon knitting of said multi-ply yarn to form amulti-ply apparel fabric, said apparel fabric is formed havingpredetermined requisite optical colour and pattern effect and havingpredetermined physical fabric properties effect devoid of opticallydetectable variants in said requisite optical colour and pattern effect;and. wherein the yarn of n yarn and the yarn of m yarn are selected soas to provide said predetermined optical colour and pattern effect andsaid predetermined fabric properties.
 36. (canceled)
 37. (canceled) 38.A multi-ply knitted apparel fabric according to claim 22, wherein thefirst denier (D₁) and the further denier (D₂) are in the range of from45 denier to 200 denier.
 39. A multi-ply knitted apparel fabricaccording to claim 22, wherein each yarn of the plurality of n yarn andeach yarn of the plurality of m yarn consists of p number of fiberswhereby p is in the range of from 40 to 300, and wherein each fiber hasa largest cross sectional diameter in the range of from 0.2 μm to 1.1μm.